Paris Men's Fashions Mull Conflicts
"The times they are a-changin'," wailed Bob Dylan on the soundtrack as models paraded in khaki jackets and wrinkled cargo pants in Yohji Yamamoto's show
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Apparently
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French designer Jean Paul Gaultier gave the battlefield theme a more frivolous treatment, plastering leather jackets and frock coats with gold braiding and insignia borrowed from navy uniforms
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"It's all about power," he told reporters afterward
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The blurring of the two themes made for a sometimes jumbled impression, as Gaultier mixed campy sailors with a tribute to pop idols such as John Lennon and Michael Jackson
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Dark denim
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"They were the VIPs
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British designer John Galliano staged his display in a church in a suburb of Paris, in what seemed like a calculated ploy to provoke
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Galliano is still reeling from the loss of his right-hand man of two decades, Steven Robinson, who died suddenly in April at the age of 38. But despite the backdrop of stained glass windows, it was hard to see a spiritual message in this collection.
Models emerged from behind two giant propeller blades in outfits that borrowed from urban conflicts ranging from the Palestinian Intifada to the Black Panther movement of the 1960s
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Some had flowing black locks tucked under keffiyehs, the cloth headdress usually worn by Arab men, and strutted in black suits with crinkled lapels while puffing on thick cigars. Others were caked in mud and wore lifejackets with helmets and gas masks.
Shock value aside, there were some fine touches, including a camouflage print featuring delicate arabesques and a seersucker coat with caftan embroidery and a cartridge belt trim. Cargo pants, rolled up to the knee, were a clever alternative to summer shorts.
For men who don't wear their politics on their sleeve
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Its team of designers has developed new fabrics
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The outfits, presented on dummies in an ornate former department store, featured fine knits and zip-up leather jackets in ultra-soft leather. These were worn over tapered and cropped pants with elegant details like a satin strip running down the inside seam.
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